First look: The Vibroplex Vibrokeyer


My “new” Vibroplex Vibrokeyer, circa 1978.

I learned CW on a set of borrowed Bencher BY-1 iambic paddles. Ultimately I had to give those paddles back to their owner, and I’ve been paddle-less ever since.

Having knocked out more than half the U.S. states on the old Ameco straight key, and used it for a few late-night ragchews, it had become the proverbial “extension of my hand” — and yet pounding out each dit and dah was, to be honest, tiring, possibly owing to the fact that the Ameco isn’t a high-grade key. The flimsy stamped metal parts, sloppy action and stiff springs made for a “unique” experience. Only after trying a precision Kent straight key at the Charlotte hamfest did I understand what I had been missing.

I tried a Begali recently, and it was definitely a high-quality item. It’s a piece of fine art, and probably too nice for a CW novice such as myself. Yes, the Benchers are just about right for me: Utilitarian, precise and no-nonsense. I’ve recently entertained the notion of a sideswiper, or “cootie” key.

Last week a member of our club indicated he had picked up a lot of ham gear at an estate sale. He told me had Vibroplex paddles, which I took to mean, he had dual lever iambic paddles. I was certainly interested, because Vibroplex is one of the oldest companies in ham radio, and they have a notorious reputation for building quality code keys; in fact, the official ARRL “Centennial Key” is a Vibroplex Deluxe Iambic.

So when I saw the Vibrokeyer, I was initially taken aback, fearing I was looking at a bug. Where was the other paddle? I took a closer look and determined I could hook it up as either a sideswiper, or a semi-iambic style keyer (Technically it’s not iambic, since you can’t close both contacts at once). It was old and that appealed to me too. Plus, online reviews of it are universally positive, so I whipped out the cash and headed home with a new piece of kit to play with. The key came in the original box shipped from Vibroplex, with the original typed instructions on adjustment and usage.

The first order of business was adjusting the key. As it rested in the box, the action was floppy, with more than a centimeter of lever movement side to side. A couple adjustments later and I had it firmed up, with about 1-2mm of movement on the arm and contact spacing just slightly larger than the width of a sheet of paper. It felt about right, so I configured it as a sideswiper by connecting it to my straight key cable, then tied the two outer contact posts together with a short jumper of hookup wire.

Right off the bat, I didn’t like this configuration. The key is fairly heavy, but the feet on the base lack grip and the back-and-forth motion needed to send continuous strings of dits had the key sliding all over the desk. Even after I secured it a bit more, I discovered I didn’t really care for the sideswiper mode because my timing was inconsistent. I believe I could improve with practice, but the Vibrokeyer seemed too clunky for this technique, and not really intended for that purpose.

Just for giggles, here is a brief video of me sending some code as a sideswiper. My technique is quite poor, but by the end of the string, I’ve settled into a nice speed:

Next, I fabricated a new cable so I could use the key as intended, with repeated dashes and dits courtesy of my rig’s keyer.

My code sounded a lot better and I found the key much easier to use, until the old muscle memory of squeeze keying took over and I found it nearly impossible to retrain my fingers to send letters starting on a dit, like R, L and F. Practice, practice and more practice will be required. 17 WPM seems to be about my sweet spot at this time.

Here’s another quick video of the key in automatic operation. I still need to minimize my hand movement, but at least I’m not slapping it around:


The Vibrokeyer is chunky. Heavy, but not heavy enough. Instead of a scalpel, I feel like I’m using a ratchet wrench. It feels very “American” and I don’t mean that in a bad way necessarily. It’s the Corvette to the Porsche: Big, brash and brutal, but still very, very good.

Like one of the old jacked-up mag-wheeled Camaros of the 1970s, I feel like the key sits up a little too high. The hinged action of the lever results in a certain “floppy” quality. Further adjustment is likely needed. The trunnion screws that float the lever in place also need to be adjusted to remove some of the up and down rattle. I’m still working on this.

Honestly, I’m not sure this is the key for me. I’ve tested a Vibroplex Code Warrior Jr . several times and it suits me. It’s small, elegant and effective. The Vibrokeyer is going to take some getting used to, but I will persist and keep practicing. This key has been on the market since 1960, and as one reviewer on eHam noted, this is a “timeless classic,” so I intend to explore it as fully as possible before writing it off completely.

10 thoughts on “First look: The Vibroplex Vibrokeyer

  1. I’ve been off the air for some time but I bought a Vibrokeyer — way–yy–yy back in the late 1980s. I obtained it at a ham flea market. Now that I’m getting back on the air, i’m going to practice with this.

    I thought of going “Iambic” but will stick with what I have. And – my straight key – a Nye Viking — I always recommend to new hams, to spend good money on a good key, because it will last a lifetime if you take reasonably good care of it.

    • Greg, thanks for your insightful comment. When I first started using the VibroKeyer I was skeptical but the more I used it, the more I enjoyed it. It really is a unique way to send code and I find it more accurate than squeeze keying. The key itself is an amazing chunk of engineering and it looks great on my desk next to my rig!

  2. Hi Andy: I’ve enjoyed snooping around your site and viewing the Vibrokeyer demo. I purchased a 70’s vintage Vibrokeyer at a hamfest last summer and now have rebuilt it with new jewels, springs and contacts. It works just like a new one. I also have 2 HamKey non-iambic paddles that I have restored and most always use a Bencher BY-2, another hamfest buy. Keep up the good work and perhaps we can do a CW QSO in the future. 73’s OM – Charlie, K0MSO – SKCC, FISTS, ARRL, WAS/CW; BTW, I also quite frequently use a vintage US Navy Flameproof straight key just like the ones I used in the Navy during the early 1960’s.

    • Hi Charles! Thanks for stopping by an I appreciate the comments! I’m still using my Vibrokeyer and in fact I was just showing it to someone yesterday, as they’d never seen one in use before. It’s a great way to send code. I believe mine is from the 70s as well, and I have the original box it shipped in! Maybe I can catch you on an SKCC sprint sometime!

  3. Although this post is rather old I still wanted to leave a comment. I have a newer version of the same key, chrome. The one in your YouTube videos is the same one my Grandfather used for many years. In fact I was looking for the vintage version but gave up after getting the chrome base one.

    Here is my observation on your use of this key. First I think you have way too much contact gap. I have set mine to be very close, so close you really don’t hear any “clicking”. You should need very little effort to operate the key.

    Second, instead of resting the heal of your hand on the table, rotate your hand so it is resting on the side. This will allow you to operate much easier using just your fingers instead of your wrist.

    Third, I have a feeling the rubber feet on the bottom of your key may have dried out and have become hard, no longer being able to grip the table. I use material referred to as shelf liner which is perforated and comes in sheets. Placing my key on it tends to “stick” the key into place where by it doesn’t shift around.

    My first key was a used Bencher iambic. It was ok but did the job. I had issues trying to keep the contacts clean. When they got dirty it became a pain to operate. I used paper to clean the contacts.

    Just my 2 cents worth.
    Best 73;
    Kurt – w2mw

    • Thanks for those comments Kurt! I’ve really grown to enjoy the key and I have a hard time using anything else! As you suggested, I did have to adjust the key, and it’s quite nice to use now.

      Indeed, the feet have dried out, so I usually put a pad under it similar to the shelf material you mentioned. It’s a great piece of hardware and I’ve made all manner of QSOs with it, including some nice rare DX!

      • You see some of the older equipment is hard to top. I found mine to be real solid and a joy to use.

        Spot yourself on the cluster after 10:00 pm and I might be able to answer. 40 may be the best option.

        Kurt – W2MW

  4. I’ve been using Vibrokeyers for years now. You have to set the contact spacing very, very close and make sure you have no up and down movement out of the lever. I use tool box shelf liner and it never moves around, you can also sand the old rubber feet that will help it. Your spring tension will also have lots to do with how much effort you have to put into it. I set mine very loose and it’s soooo easy to send with. Good luck with it.

    • The straight key is just a simple on-off switch, so there’s not much you need to do to wire it. A mono audio jack plug will only have wires connected to the tip and sleeve, (the positive and ground), and it doesn’t matter which one of those you connect to either terminal on the straight key. Some rigs may be looking for a stereo type of jack plug. You may need to check your radio’s manual for advice on wiring that. Hope this helps!

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